EVEREST KALA PATHAR & GOKYO TREKKING

Interesting and justifiably famous, not only for its proximity to the world's highest mountain, but also for its Sherpa villages and monasteries, the Everest, or Solu Khumbu area is the second most popular trekking destination in Nepal. The primary objective of Everest treks is either the Everest base camp, about 5.340 meters, or Kala Pattar, an unassuming 5.545 meter hump on the southern flank of Pumori (7.161 meters), which provides a fine view of Everest (8.848 metres).

One of the biggest problems with the Everest trek is the high likelihood of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), commonly known as altitude sickness, a potentially deadly illness caused by too rapid an ascent to high elevation. Be sure to read the section on Mountain Sickness if you are planning an Everest trek. If you suffer any symptoms of altitude sickness it is still possible to make a fascinating trek to less ambitious destinations including Namche Bazar, the administrative headquarters of the Khumbu region; Khumjung or Thami, more typical Sherpa villages; or Thyangboche monastery, from which an excellent view may he had of Everest and its more spectacular neighbor Ama Dablam (6.856 metres).

The Everest region may be reached by STOL (short take-off and landing) airstrips at LukIa (2.800 metres), Shyangboche (3.700 metres), or Phaphlu (2364 metres) or by an eight-day trek from the road head at Jiri, 188 km from Kathmandu. Those who fly to Lukla miss the historic and culturally fascinating route followed by the Everest expeditions of the ''50s and '60s although the trek has changed substantially in the past 30 years. It is best to take the time to walk from Jiri, then after acclimatization and conditioning afforded by the trek, visit base camp or climb Kala Pattar and either fly out from Lukla or walk back by an alternative route to Kathmandu. Those who insist their time is limited can fly to Lukla and spend as little as six days to visit Namche Bazar and Thyangboche. It is ill advised to attempt a quick visit to base camp, because of the lack of time for acclimatization, if you fly in to one of these airstrips. You should allow at least eight or nine days to reach the base camp region if you fly to Lukla; the return from base camp to Lukla can be made in as few as four or five days, so an absolute minimum of two weeks is required for a safe trek to base camp. The timing is further complicated because flights to LukIa often do not work as planned, so those with a tight schedule would do well to allow a few spare days for both the flight in and the flight out.

Everest Gokyo :
The second part of our trip heads up the Dudh Kosi Valley, crowned by the 8.153-meter peak of Cho Oyu and its companion peak Gyachung Kang. Gokyo vs. Kala Pattar is a favourite argument: those who have visited both seem to rate Gokyo slightly higher. Despite this it gets fewer trekkers; the lure of Everest Base Camp is too strong.

Take the trail on the valley's west side. Head through small summer herding settlements to skirt the giant Ngozumba Glacier and arrive at a series of small lakes. Gokyo (4,750 meters) is a tiny herding settlement by the third lake and has several lodges. Climb the 5,483-meter peak to the north-west (also dubbed Kala Pattar) for views of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu, plus a host of smaller peaks. Several more lakes and Cho Oyu Base Camp lie north up the glacier.

The trek to Gokyo offers an alternative to the traditional trek to Everest base camp. from Gokyo, more of Everest itself is visible, though from a slightly greater distance, then from kala pattar above Gorak shep. the mountains are more spectacular, the ngozumpa glacier is the largest in the Nepal Himalaya, and from a ridge above gokyo, four 8000m peak (Cho Oyu, Everest, Lgotse and Makalu) are visible at once. The view of the tremendous ice ridge between Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang (7922m) is one of the most dramatic panoramas in khumbu. There are many options for additional exploration and high-altitude walking, including the crossing of Cho La, a 5420m-high pass into Khumbu.