Island Peak Climbing in Nepal (6165 m.)

Interesting and justifiably famous, not only for its proximity to the world's highest mountain, but also for its Sherpa villages and monasteries, the Everest, or Solu Khumbu area is the second most popular trekking destination in Nepal. The primary objective of Everest treks is either the Everest base camp, about 5.340 meters, or Kala Pattar, an unassuming 5.545 meter hump on the southern flank of Pumori (7.161 meters), which provides a fine view of Everest (8.848 metres).

One of the biggest problems with the Everest trek is the high likelihood of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), commonly known as altitude sickness, a potentially deadly illness caused by too rapid an ascent to high elevation. Be sure to read the section on Mountain Sickness if you are planning an Everest trek. If you suffer any symptoms of altitude sickness it is still possible to make a fascinating trek to less ambitious destinations including Namche Bazar, the administrative headquarters of the Khumbu region; Khumjung or Thami, more typical Sherpa villages; or Thyangboche monastery, from which an excellent view may he had of Everest and its more spectacular neighbor Ama Dablam (6.856 metres).

The Everest region may be reached by STOL (short take-off and landing) airstrips at LukIa (2.800 metres), Shyangboche (3.700 metres), or Phaphlu (2364 metres) or by an eight-day trek from the road head at Jiri, 188 km from Kathmandu. Those who fly to Lukla miss the historic and culturally fascinating route followed by the Everest expeditions of the ''50s and '60s although the trek has changed substantially in the past 30 years. It is best to take the time to walk from Jiri, then after acclimatization and conditioning afforded by the trek, visit base camp or climb Kala Pattar and either fly out from Lukla or walk back by an alternative route to Kathmandu. Those who insist their time is limited can fly to Lukla and spend as little as six days to visit Namche Bazar and Thyangboche. It is ill advised to attempt a quick visit to base camp, because of the lack of time for acclimatization, if you fly in to one of these airstrips. You should allow at least eight or nine days to reach the base camp region if you fly to Lukla; the return from base camp to Lukla can be made in as few as four or five days, so an absolute minimum of two weeks is required for a safe trek to base camp. The timing is further complicated because flights to LukIa often do not work as planned, so those with a tight schedule would do well to allow a few spare days for both the flight in and the flight out.

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The Island Peak or Imja Tse ( 6.165m ) :
The name Island Peak was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.

The mountain was first dimbed in 1953 by a very prestigious team in preparation for the ascent of Everest. They were Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with seven Sherpas who were trying out the new fangled oxygen sets; as practice, of course, for loftier things. Fortunately this didn't set a precedent and most people seem able to climb it without bottled air, although a Sherpa.

Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn't look too impressive, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close inspection it reveals itself to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.

As well as providing an enjoyable climb the peak also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak can be likened to an island in a glacial sea, then the mainland forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summits of Nuptse (7.879m) Lhotse (8.501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8.410m), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar (8.383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu (6.734m). beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m).

To the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse (7.720m) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam (6.856m) which is like a giant sea-stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island Peak stands.